Monday, July 16, 2007

Cornwall is a strange place

Having been away for more than a week, very few of you were probably wondering what had happened to me. Nevertheless, I've spent the last week learning how weird Cornwall is.


Head South down the M5 and eventually you'll reach the end of the motorway network - and civilisation itself it would seem.

Lots of tourists this summer will head to Cornwall and they too will discover that whilst this county can offer an enjoyable week away from home, it is a strange place.

One thing that immediately stands out is the natives. Now to say that all of them are a little odd is unfair, but after a short while you soon realise that films like 'Hot Fuzz' do offer an accurate representation of life in the West Country. Accent aside, there seems to be an innate fear of anything 'not Cornish'.
Almost any request for alcohol, food or tatty gifts was met with the expression "You're not from round 'ere are yer?" This is unusual, given that the Cornish economy would be completely non-existent without an influx of people every year from people who "weren't from round there".
The other thing that immediately strikes you is the number of 'Saint Piran's' flags, the local flag of 'Kernow', that's Cornish for 'Cornwall' - it's an educational experience is this you know.....
This flag is everywhere, dangling from windows, on tea towels and flying from car aerials as if there were a major football tournament taking place. This mass flag waving though is somewhat unnerving to the outsider. It makes you assume that the Cornish folk are forming some mass separatist group looking to succeed from the UK - who knows......

There's another problem with Cornwall. There's not an awful lot to do there and what attractions do exist are spread across the length and breadth of the county. Unless you are staying ion Newquay, which is quite a lively resort, you have to drive pretty much everywhere. That would be fine, but because there are no motorways, you can't drive anywhere without getting stuck behind a tractor or a caravan.
The main road that does exist, the A30, has struggled to cope with the tourist traffic flow for decades. Whilst we were there, they actually opened an expanded section of the A30 at Indian Queens to cope with the demand. The day after it opened, it was swiftly reduced back to one lane due to an accident.
A trip along the A30 also brings your attention to an unnerving amount of 'road-kill'. Birds, badgers, rabbits, squirrels, you name it, it's probably dead on the A30 and one journey in particular really made me question what was actually meant by the term 'local produce'.

We stayed in a small village, just outside Penzance, a town that fully supported the image of Cornwall that became ingrained in my mind.
I couldn't understand how anyone could actually live in such a town. Whilst it might make a perfectly adequate holiday destination, you'd struggle to sustain an interesting lifestyle there. The two main economic opportunities that appeared to exist consisted of selling ice cream or buying a barely sea-worthy fishing boat and then finding tourists stupid enough to pay money to ride on said vessel. Aside from that, if want to buy a range of products costing £1 or drink in an unwelcoming public house, then you might enjoy spending the best part of your life there.

Anyway, it's good to be back and I dare say that there'll be some more infrequent updates on my latest adventures in due course.

10 comments:

Silverback said...

Hi Michael.

As someone came to my blog via your blog (maybe it was you of course), I decided to repay the favour and visit yours.
I'm enjoying catching up with your posts and thank you for putting my site into your favs list.
I'm honoured and will add yours to mine. Ever little helps.

Ian

Anonymous said...

Hi Michael,

Firstly it seems a shame that you had almost nothing nice to say about your trip to Cornwall. Perhaps you genuinely had a bad time there, or maybe and more likely you found your over simplified and derogatory account of events more entertaining.

I know, as well as you that most of what you said is an extreme exaggeration. The Cornish are a proud people, which I see no problem in. They are also an incredibly welcoming group and if you received a bad reception at the local pub, I would say it was to do with your shortcomings and not your hosts. Your comments about the roads bewildered me. The reason people come to Cornwall is to see the countryside so the idea of putting a motorway through the middle are ridiculous.

This said the Cornish can, at times, dislike the influx of tourists for the simple reason that you yourself stated. Everyone has been forced into the tourist industry and now sells ice cream. Something I think we can all imagine to be rather unpleasant. Your blog, although possibly meant in good humour, makes you sound like a twat.

Kind Regards
David

Anonymous said...

Has it ever occurred to you that the reason you saw so many St.Piran's flags was because the Cornish are proud of their identity?Why didn't you ask a Cornish person about the flags?Believe me,they're more than happy to talk to you about the subject,but please don't act as if Cornwall is just another English county.It really isn't.Google CORNWALL24 for an idea of what I mean.

Anonymous said...

your right, i live in cornwall and i have seen car stickers with racist comments against the english which if the same comments were made against black or asian folk , the police would be involved..the cornish proudly boast of their ancestry abroad but no one is allowed to come here..two faced and legends in their own minds are the cornish

eyanharve said...

great information sharing. thanks for that.
- St Austell

Anonymous said...

Cornwall *is* an English county. It's one with an interesting and unique history, but it's an English county. Get used to it or emigrate to Brittany.

Anonymous said...

If its one thing I can't stand is emits who come to our beautiful county and moan about our laid back life. The only reason a Cornish person would be rude or short with an emit is because of the rudeness that they have brought down with them from living in a changed England! We are proud! And to be honest, I'm glad you didn't enjoy yourself, hopefully this means you won't be back! :)

Anonymous said...

Michael you are so right. Since I came here thinking I would get peace, found myself realizing the dark reality of the Celtic mind. Cornwall is the worst of Wales and GB. (I lived near Swansea and folks were real friendly. Here near Falmouth, I felt like I landed from Neptune. Celtic women are ferociously jealous. They don't like foreign ladies. It takes a few days for their masks to fall. Very impatient and frustrated folks. Stressful vibrations. Oh Wait Eureka! there is a Witchcraft museum but no churches. Got why pilgrims sailed from Plymouth. They escaped this invisible witchcraft presence I feel all too well. Some brooms managed to sail too explaining why some innocents were burned. This malevolent and rude aura can only be perceived by writers or extra sensorial people. Too many books confirm that. It is not a laid back life at all. It is a place where non Cornish people can't integrate because Cornish people are not compassionate. In comparison I find Londoners exquisite. Lovely landscapes got nothing to do with lovely human nature. Yes I am in a hurry to get out of here. Devon people tried to warn me that said. Good news is that I can now understand why the writer wrote the Scarlet Letter! It is about jealousy and frustration, hating what is different. Non Cornish...

Anonymous said...

For anon at 6:53 pm : Trust me, Cornish are beyond rude! Let me tell you about so called laid back lifestyle - it is just plain laziness, they appearance is dirty, if the property is owned by Cornish person, it is guaranteed to be a total mess, all the nice houses are owned by English. Cornish are very jealous and resentful people. If you have a nice car , nice TIDY and CLEAN appearance, they will absolutely despise you. They will go great lengths to ruin it all. Yes coast is beautiful, but so is the Scotland , so guess what, I and all my friends will be spending our money with lot friendlier people. Oh, and guess what, without EU there would be no Cornish farms.

Anonymous said...

Thank you for this article and those that left comments. It is really interesting to see how a peripheral region can be perceived by a bigger neighbours and how an us and them dialogue can develop. There is a great deal of interest in the dynamic between England and its peripheral neighbours as it suggests political and social de-integration of the nation state.

What I found particularly interesting is that it seemed to be English people rather than Cornish people that perceived the biggest difference between the two peoples and seemed that English commentators were particularly uncomfortable with Cornish identity rather than the other way around.

I would be very interested to know why this might be if anyone has any views.